DISCLAIMER: I am not a certified automotive technician, mechanic, or electronic installer. Do at your own risk.
Components Added: a JL Audio 10w3v3 subwoofer (in a sealed box), a Rockford Fosgate P-200 Amplifier (pushing about 200W), and Audio Control LC2i Line-Output Converter (also referred to as LOC below)
Total Install Time: give yourself a solid two days of not expecting to drive the car and leaving the interior parts removed, just to be safe in case you need time.
REMOVE GROUND CABLE FROM BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ADD/ALTER ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OR CONNECTIONS!
- DO NOT WIRE the +12v FOR YOUR AMP TO THE REAR FUSE BOX POWER WIRE CONNECTION! IT WILL DRAIN YOUR BATTERY OVER TIME AND CAUSE ELECTRIC GREMLINS!
- I ran the power wire from the battery to the amp, down the passenger side of the vehicle because I wanted my amp on the passenger side so I could fold down the double seat with out moving/removing the sub/amp.
- I connected the power wire to the battery with a 30 amp fuse within 12 inches of the battery's positive terminal. I try to use the black plastic wire covering whenever I can to reduce electrical interference frequencies and protect the wire insulation. I do that with all of the wires really wherever there's room.
- I sliced a little hole (using scissors) in the passenger side grommet and fed the power wire down the hole, which is essentially behind the glovebox.
- I removed the trim and paneling along the passenger side bottom interior of the vehicle, with caution not to remove (or move) the b-pillar paneling too much to avoid airbag problems. I did not have to remove the glove box because the power wire fell to a place where I could reach it.
- To remove the paneling along the floor of the passenger side front door and passenger side back door, run the power wire, and reinstall the paneling took me approximately 2 hrs (with several verbal expletives).
- Since I wanted my subwoofer and amplifier behind the rear passenger side seat, I grounded my amplifier cable to a screw hole on the inner-sidewall of the spare wheel well (closest to back seat).
- There were no existing ground connections there, so I stripped the paint and added my own 14mm bolt.
Sound Signal for Subwoofer:
- I got the sound signal for my subwoofer by connecting the factory subwoofer's amplifier wiring (that little Grey rectangular-shape metal thing on the back of the factory subwoofer box) to my LOC, and then I ran signal cable from the LOC to my subwoofer's amp.
- I read in one of the L322 Range Rover forums that you could detach the factory subwoofer wiring from its little amplifier and remove the factory subwoofer, and then use those wires to connect to the LOC. This was then confirmed by my pro audio installer, whom also helped me determine where to put each wire pertaining to the LOC (since it can be very confusing).
- When I did this whole install the first time, I completely removed the factory subwoofer box, but I didn't have anything to mount the LOC to. So when I did this install I'm describing now, I kept the factory subwoofer box (but removed the speaker) and just mounted the LOC inside the box.
- I removed the factory subwoofer box in order to mount the LOC in the best position I could. Then when I mounted the LOC inside the factory subwoofer box, I reinstalled it in its original location.
- If you duplicate my method for this, make sure to give your self enough room on either side of the LOC to be able to connect the wiring while the LOC is mounted.
- Connect the wires to the LOC before reinstalling the factory subwoofer box. This will make your life much easier.
LOC Connections (Audio Control LC2i):
- The wiring for this unit is what can make or break the install, since the amp and sub wiring are pretty straight forward and standard across most single amp/sub installations.
- I tapped into the factory subwoofer amplifier's wiring for the sound signal, as previously explained. The LOC has other terminals though...
- +12v = This is what you'll want to connect to your switched power source. This is what will turn your LOC on. I tapped into the rear passenger side cigarette lighter's wiring harness (red wire) in the cargo area, since this source is on whenever the car is on, and off whenever the car is off, although there is a delay sometimes of up to 30 seconds. Meaning, when I take the key out of the ignition, the amp power light will stay on for up to 30 seconds, but then will turn off. Or, if you get out of the car and lock it, the amp will turn off sooner.
- My pro audio installer advised to wire this connection to the ignition, but it would take a really long time to take apart the dash in order to get behind the keyhole. DO NOT WIRE THIS TO THE REAR FUSE BOX POWER WIRE! IT WILL DRAIN YOUR BATTERY OVER TIME AND CAUSE ELECTRIC GREMLINS!
- Remote Out = This is what will turn the amp on and off.
- Ground = this is the grounding connection for the LOC. Make sure to ground this to bare metal! I grounded it on the inner tailgate ground bolt on a sidewall in the spare wheel well. This location is great and already has other grounds there. I drilled a small hole in the factory subwoofer box for better wire-running ability and convenience.
- Once I established where all of my connections needed to be made, I ran the wires/cables from the LOC mounted in the factory subwoofer box toward the passenger side of the cargo area (except for the LOC ground of course).
- I ran those wires underneath the carpet along the back seat, inside some wire protection tubing.
Advice & Things to Consider:
- This whole installation is much easier if you remove nearly all of the panels and covers in the rear of the vehicle, including along the passenger side floor for running your amp's power cable from the battery to the trunk.
- Leave yourself plenty of slack in wires to make room for error or incase a specific car part is to hard to remove so you need to go around it some how without inhibiting anything else.
- Originally, I went against the advice of my pro audio installer based on convenience, and I tapped into the power wire from the rear passenger side fuse box. However, after about a month I noticed the electronics in the car going haywire since the amp didn't shut off until two minutes after the car was locked, which meant it also turned on when the car was unlocked. I got "transmission fault errors" due to the battery being slowly drained as a result.
- Please feel free to ask me any questions about any of the stuff I explained or about any pictures I posted in case something is unclear. I would be happy to help, as I know this is difficult stuff, especially those unfamiliar with car modifications. I will try to respond as soon as I can, it doesn't matter how old this thread becomes. Send me a private message and I will see it faster.